WEDNESDAY: Near Carcassonne
This is way too easy…Life at 6kms per hour…Or, if you really push yourself, 7kms per hour. We are on the Canal du Midi, meandering our way from Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres. Interestingly, we are also travelling about 160kms, but the calorie count will be in the upward direction instead of the other way. The Canal is one of those “engineering marvels” (another name for a major works project) built in the late 17th Century, connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic (near Bourdeaux).
A quick update… We left Espalion by the only public means of transportation – the 8:00am bus to Rodez. Miss that bus, and it’s either wait till late aft. or hire a taxi for the 30 km ride to Rodez. From Rodez to Toulouse and on to Castelnaudary by bus and train. Arrived in Castelnaudary at 3PM, met up with our friends Mindy and Lyle and after a quick demonstration on how to use the boat we were off.
Immediately one must navigate 3 connecting locks to leave town. In other words, a catastrophy in the making. Before I recount, let me just say that the Sandford-Lobaco’s and canal boats have a long history of mishaps. This is our 5th trip in Europe on canal boats. Something interesting usually happens. Once I almost ran into a car on this same Canal – 27 years ago…..Odd to find a car in a Canal, but probably much more problematic for the person driving the car…. This time while the water was receding in our first lock, I noticed that our boat seemed to be listing to the side. Sure enough, we were about to tip over! (I exaggerate just slightly). Our rubber bumper had attached to the side of the lock…I rushed over trying to push the gazillion pound boat off the side before horrors ensued (I had a fleeting image of those mothers lifting cars to save the pinned child). Push as I might little happened until Lyle realized our predicament and put the boat in reverse. The boat plopped down into the lock…..Welcome to canal life.
Boating really is quite nice. Not all that much to do except avoid accidents, eat a lot and drink copious amounts of wine. Can’t complain about that too much. The most exciting part of the day is getting in and out of the locks. Three or four boats can be stuffed into one lock and maneuvering takes a bit of practice, especially since the newer boats are quite large. The canal wanders through vineyards and little towns where you can stop and eat some more. …This canal is very pretty, typically lined by large plane trees and wide enough for two boats to cross.
Speaking of eating...the regional specialty of this region is cassoulet. I love cassoulet. Anything with beans, sausage, duck confit and fat ranks high on my culinary scale. Next time I visit, it will be just to try the differing versions. However, I doubt any will compare with the one I had on the first evening on the canal…After boating for about three hours we stopped at 7pm (locks close at 7pm; In October locks close at 6pm). We walked on a dark road for about 1 km into the tiny village of Villepinte in search of a restaurant I had read about. We eventually found “Aux Deus Acacias”. One other couple was eating. Lyle and I ordered cassoulet, and what came from the kitchen was close to perfection. Spoiled the first time…..
Arrived in Carcassonne late afternoon on Tuesday, docked at the marina and went to McDonalds. You may inquire why I, that faux bon vivant would contemplate the inside of a McDonalds?...In need of a “Grand-Mac”?. No, just free WiFi, bien sur!. For a petite café, utilize the free service for as long as you want. Truly, “les arches d’or”….That evening, more cassoulet (not as good, but not bad) at a cute little restaurant by the canal, while Les and the others had the audacity to eat something different – delicious fresh fish and foie gras….
Wednesday morning took a stroll up the cite in Carcassone – the old walled city that was the model for Disneyland – or something like that. Cute and touristy - stayed for 10 minutes, more than enough. That evening after no further misadventures on the canal, stopped by the side of a vineyard, put our table on top of the boat and had a splendid little feast, topped off by a great 2002 L’Esprit de Pennautier from Chateau Pinnautieur (cab-syrah blend) bought from the winery from an unpleasant, pretentious little twirp…but damn good wine.
THURSDAY: Carcassonne to Argen-Minervois
An observation…there seems to be some sort of fascination among folks in watching canal boats go up and down in the locks – “les ecluse voyeurs” as I now like to refer to them. Sometimes a small gaggle of folks come to see the boaters make fools of themselves in the locks…an odd affliction, sort of like the rubber-neckers of our freeways
Another lazy day on the canal, capped by a brilliant lunch at the Auberge d’Aubossier – their patio sits right on the Canal….Mindy had the garcon take our picture, which you won’t get to see because can’t get her photos on my notebook. Suffice to tell you it was an image of two happy-looking couples enjoying their dejeuner in a gorgeous setting. Given the graying hair, probably more of a Gourmet Magazine photo-opt than Food & Wine….From there is was on to our destination and another miserable dinner on board – foie gras on toasted brioche, a pepper encrusted goat cheese bought at the tiny local market that morning, salad, and two bottles of wine (a lovely Muscat to accompany the foie gras) ….Life is slowing down to 4kms per hour…..
This is way too easy…Life at 6kms per hour…Or, if you really push yourself, 7kms per hour. We are on the Canal du Midi, meandering our way from Castelnaudary to Port Cassafieres. Interestingly, we are also travelling about 160kms, but the calorie count will be in the upward direction instead of the other way. The Canal is one of those “engineering marvels” (another name for a major works project) built in the late 17th Century, connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic (near Bourdeaux).
A quick update… We left Espalion by the only public means of transportation – the 8:00am bus to Rodez. Miss that bus, and it’s either wait till late aft. or hire a taxi for the 30 km ride to Rodez. From Rodez to Toulouse and on to Castelnaudary by bus and train. Arrived in Castelnaudary at 3PM, met up with our friends Mindy and Lyle and after a quick demonstration on how to use the boat we were off.
Immediately one must navigate 3 connecting locks to leave town. In other words, a catastrophy in the making. Before I recount, let me just say that the Sandford-Lobaco’s and canal boats have a long history of mishaps. This is our 5th trip in Europe on canal boats. Something interesting usually happens. Once I almost ran into a car on this same Canal – 27 years ago…..Odd to find a car in a Canal, but probably much more problematic for the person driving the car…. This time while the water was receding in our first lock, I noticed that our boat seemed to be listing to the side. Sure enough, we were about to tip over! (I exaggerate just slightly). Our rubber bumper had attached to the side of the lock…I rushed over trying to push the gazillion pound boat off the side before horrors ensued (I had a fleeting image of those mothers lifting cars to save the pinned child). Push as I might little happened until Lyle realized our predicament and put the boat in reverse. The boat plopped down into the lock…..Welcome to canal life.
Boating really is quite nice. Not all that much to do except avoid accidents, eat a lot and drink copious amounts of wine. Can’t complain about that too much. The most exciting part of the day is getting in and out of the locks. Three or four boats can be stuffed into one lock and maneuvering takes a bit of practice, especially since the newer boats are quite large. The canal wanders through vineyards and little towns where you can stop and eat some more. …This canal is very pretty, typically lined by large plane trees and wide enough for two boats to cross.
Speaking of eating...the regional specialty of this region is cassoulet. I love cassoulet. Anything with beans, sausage, duck confit and fat ranks high on my culinary scale. Next time I visit, it will be just to try the differing versions. However, I doubt any will compare with the one I had on the first evening on the canal…After boating for about three hours we stopped at 7pm (locks close at 7pm; In October locks close at 6pm). We walked on a dark road for about 1 km into the tiny village of Villepinte in search of a restaurant I had read about. We eventually found “Aux Deus Acacias”. One other couple was eating. Lyle and I ordered cassoulet, and what came from the kitchen was close to perfection. Spoiled the first time…..
Arrived in Carcassonne late afternoon on Tuesday, docked at the marina and went to McDonalds. You may inquire why I, that faux bon vivant would contemplate the inside of a McDonalds?...In need of a “Grand-Mac”?. No, just free WiFi, bien sur!. For a petite café, utilize the free service for as long as you want. Truly, “les arches d’or”….That evening, more cassoulet (not as good, but not bad) at a cute little restaurant by the canal, while Les and the others had the audacity to eat something different – delicious fresh fish and foie gras….
Wednesday morning took a stroll up the cite in Carcassone – the old walled city that was the model for Disneyland – or something like that. Cute and touristy - stayed for 10 minutes, more than enough. That evening after no further misadventures on the canal, stopped by the side of a vineyard, put our table on top of the boat and had a splendid little feast, topped off by a great 2002 L’Esprit de Pennautier from Chateau Pinnautieur (cab-syrah blend) bought from the winery from an unpleasant, pretentious little twirp…but damn good wine.
THURSDAY: Carcassonne to Argen-Minervois
An observation…there seems to be some sort of fascination among folks in watching canal boats go up and down in the locks – “les ecluse voyeurs” as I now like to refer to them. Sometimes a small gaggle of folks come to see the boaters make fools of themselves in the locks…an odd affliction, sort of like the rubber-neckers of our freeways
Another lazy day on the canal, capped by a brilliant lunch at the Auberge d’Aubossier – their patio sits right on the Canal….Mindy had the garcon take our picture, which you won’t get to see because can’t get her photos on my notebook. Suffice to tell you it was an image of two happy-looking couples enjoying their dejeuner in a gorgeous setting. Given the graying hair, probably more of a Gourmet Magazine photo-opt than Food & Wine….From there is was on to our destination and another miserable dinner on board – foie gras on toasted brioche, a pepper encrusted goat cheese bought at the tiny local market that morning, salad, and two bottles of wine (a lovely Muscat to accompany the foie gras) ….Life is slowing down to 4kms per hour…..
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