FRIDAY: Argens-Minervois – Capestang
Only one lock today – 54kms free of voyeurs until we reach Beziers. Last night a hurricane came through – I’d say a three-club wind. All night the well-used blue fenders of the side of the boat were bumping the side of the boat – thump-thump – makes for particularly unpleasant sleeping.
Another observation…Les is more mechanically inept than I am, and that is saying a lot. Toilets on these boats are not the nice little flush things. You must crank the handle to fill the basin, thereafter turn a switch and crank again to let the waste water recede into the holding tank. Suffice to say Les had some trouble figuring it out…..
Capestang is a bigger town with all the amenities. All four of us went out for pizza at Le Provence. Strikingly good.. For 10 Euros a pizza, 8 Euros for a litre of good local Chateau Plonk – a cheap, wonderful alternative to the typical menus….
Along with the holiday self-drive boats, there are large hotel barges that ply the canal. Beautifully laid out, with gorgeous teak interiors and usually carrying 6-10 passengers, they are the five-star version of canal life. The pilots are quite adept at piloting these enormous vessels through the often-tiny bridge underpasses.
You also see a lot of bikers along the canal. A dirt path runs alongside the entire canal. Groups of bikers on organized tours will zoom along with their maps/itineraries attached to their front handlebars…One of the woman we met on our walk had biked the entire length of the canal – some 600kms according to her calculations. These dirt paths might be a bit hard on the ass, but compared to the misery of blisters, I’ll take a sore bum anytime..
SATURDAY: Capestang – Beziers
Another lazy day capped off by the seven Fonserannes locks at Beziers. These locks are only open in one direction twice a day, so one must arrange their boating plans accordingly. We opted for the afternoon time – 1pm. There were a line of boats prepared to venture into the locks, but of course the eclusier did not arrive till near 2pm. Down we proceeded with scores of voyeurs following our descent – this being the most famous of all the locks on the Canal. It took 45 minutes to maneuver the locks. We had one group of inexperienced French persons handling one of the four boats in our flotilla. There were 8 of them…all inept. My favorite of the group was the very middle-age woman wearing spandex shorts. She had this look of disgust every time the boat behind theirs crept up close. Les couldn’t avoid commenting that she was “too old for camel toe”…..
We strolled into Beziers, by far the biggest city we have visited. Found and bought – for 1 Euro - a little bicycle at the local bri-bac outdoor marche to add to my collection. Sat down at a shady café in front of the cathedral, drank pastis while Les chatted with her sister using our Skype access.
Dinner was by the Canal at an upscale restaurant called La Refiniere – a converted sulphur refinery…very nouvelle cuisine. This was the restaurant recommended to Lyle by a sommelier in Palm Springs – we stepped off the boat in search and it was 50 meters away. A great bottle of 2008 Domaine La Croix Belle – Les champs de Lys (Grenache blanc-viognier blend) accompanied a coquille st. jacques entrée followed by game hen with gnocchi.
Today is the second anniversary of Jules’ death. Just as he was always want to say on our canal boat trips - “time to get organized”…we never did and I don’t intend to start.
SUNDAY: Beziers – Port Cassafieres.
The last full day of boating. The days disappear into one another. A holiday really begins when one forgets what day it is. Getting close to that…..
Occasionally one sees boats for sale. Nice looking one today for only 50,000 Euro. I have to think it would be much more interesting than retiring to Florida…
Only one lock today – 54kms free of voyeurs until we reach Beziers. Last night a hurricane came through – I’d say a three-club wind. All night the well-used blue fenders of the side of the boat were bumping the side of the boat – thump-thump – makes for particularly unpleasant sleeping.
Another observation…Les is more mechanically inept than I am, and that is saying a lot. Toilets on these boats are not the nice little flush things. You must crank the handle to fill the basin, thereafter turn a switch and crank again to let the waste water recede into the holding tank. Suffice to say Les had some trouble figuring it out…..
Capestang is a bigger town with all the amenities. All four of us went out for pizza at Le Provence. Strikingly good.. For 10 Euros a pizza, 8 Euros for a litre of good local Chateau Plonk – a cheap, wonderful alternative to the typical menus….
Along with the holiday self-drive boats, there are large hotel barges that ply the canal. Beautifully laid out, with gorgeous teak interiors and usually carrying 6-10 passengers, they are the five-star version of canal life. The pilots are quite adept at piloting these enormous vessels through the often-tiny bridge underpasses.
You also see a lot of bikers along the canal. A dirt path runs alongside the entire canal. Groups of bikers on organized tours will zoom along with their maps/itineraries attached to their front handlebars…One of the woman we met on our walk had biked the entire length of the canal – some 600kms according to her calculations. These dirt paths might be a bit hard on the ass, but compared to the misery of blisters, I’ll take a sore bum anytime..
SATURDAY: Capestang – Beziers
Another lazy day capped off by the seven Fonserannes locks at Beziers. These locks are only open in one direction twice a day, so one must arrange their boating plans accordingly. We opted for the afternoon time – 1pm. There were a line of boats prepared to venture into the locks, but of course the eclusier did not arrive till near 2pm. Down we proceeded with scores of voyeurs following our descent – this being the most famous of all the locks on the Canal. It took 45 minutes to maneuver the locks. We had one group of inexperienced French persons handling one of the four boats in our flotilla. There were 8 of them…all inept. My favorite of the group was the very middle-age woman wearing spandex shorts. She had this look of disgust every time the boat behind theirs crept up close. Les couldn’t avoid commenting that she was “too old for camel toe”…..
We strolled into Beziers, by far the biggest city we have visited. Found and bought – for 1 Euro - a little bicycle at the local bri-bac outdoor marche to add to my collection. Sat down at a shady café in front of the cathedral, drank pastis while Les chatted with her sister using our Skype access.
Dinner was by the Canal at an upscale restaurant called La Refiniere – a converted sulphur refinery…very nouvelle cuisine. This was the restaurant recommended to Lyle by a sommelier in Palm Springs – we stepped off the boat in search and it was 50 meters away. A great bottle of 2008 Domaine La Croix Belle – Les champs de Lys (Grenache blanc-viognier blend) accompanied a coquille st. jacques entrée followed by game hen with gnocchi.
Today is the second anniversary of Jules’ death. Just as he was always want to say on our canal boat trips - “time to get organized”…we never did and I don’t intend to start.
SUNDAY: Beziers – Port Cassafieres.
The last full day of boating. The days disappear into one another. A holiday really begins when one forgets what day it is. Getting close to that…..
Occasionally one sees boats for sale. Nice looking one today for only 50,000 Euro. I have to think it would be much more interesting than retiring to Florida…
yes old people camel toe is the worst camel toe around
ReplyDeleteIt all sounds wonderful! Suffering from travel envey, I do concur with Mia, love to all.
ReplyDelete