Navarrenx - Uhart Mixe 29kms

Friday, September 29th

We decided to get to St Jean in two days instead of three. That meant two more long days. Hot again, with very little shade as we struggled through the rolling Basque countryside. Remote walking with no real villages to pass which meant lack of access to water...This became a problem because we actually ran out of water with about 5kms left. Very fortunately we passed an isolated home on the chemin where we spotted an elderly woman moving her car. I asked for some water and she invited us into her home where she filled our container with cold, delicious eau. Thank goodness for St. Jacque's intervention beecause I'm not sure if we could have made it to our destination.
And what a nice destination it was. A walker's gite, but it was more like a roadside Inn - the only place to stay in the tiny village. Again, our own room. But the best part was dinner. Along with 4 other walkers we had met along the Way, we were feasted like royalty. Among other things, my first Piperade - a Basque-like stew made from peppers, onion, tomatoes, and garlic topped with slices of jambon (from black pigs) and sausages. Beyond delicious. Copious amounts of unending bottles of Red and Rose wines, all overseen by an elderly male owner taking care of our every need - a perfect evening after a very difficult day....And Leslie got stinking drunk....The breakfast the next morning was just as nice with fresh squeezed orange juice and sundry goodies.