Torres del Rio - Logrono     21km

A cool, misty day with lots of ups and downs, making it a tiring 5 hours of walking. We have left Navarra and entered Rioja. Very pretty countryside, as we are passing many vineyards full of unpicked Tempranillo grapes - At least I assume that's what they are. And yes, there were also white grapes. We'll be drinking red and white tonight on the Calle Laurel which is packed with tapas/Pintxos bars.
We have walked for seven days. I gather it is time for some reflection...Nah, but some thoughts:
1. Poles are good. We each have one and they have been essential - especially on those nasty downhill parts....
2. Cafe con Leche is God's liqueur. At least two a day and the perfect justification to stop, rest and appreciate the moment.
3. Wine is cheap, good and helps dull the aches.
4. Weight sucks - carry as little as possible.
5. Communal sleeping is OK , but not conducive for marital relations - hence an occasional pension also alleviates the pain.
6. It's hard to spend a lot of money - right up my alley!
Enough for now. Going drinking. Tomorrow is another long day.

 Estella  - Torres del Rio   28 Km

Long day today because we decided to carry on and leave our Camino family in  the previous town. I'm sure we will see them again. We walked the extra 8 km because it was a cool, rainy day. Nevertheless, @18 miles was enough. Perhaps the most interesting part of the day was the visit to the famous wine fountain. You can choose water or wine - as much as you want. It was 9:00am so for once I restrained myself.... I knew this was on the route today so last night I bought a bottle from the Bodega for dinner. Quite nice.
It feels like we are in the middle of nowhere - only 7 walkers in this albergue  and we have the two- bunk bedroom to ourselves. The bathroom is downstairs and outside, so this is not for everyone. But the bed is lovely and for 7 Euros per person can't complain too much.....It is quiet if one skips the typical rest stages. A bite to eat in the one open restaurant and tomorrow on to Logrono - the Capitol of Rioja - for more Pintxos and vino.

Puente de la Reina - Estella   23kms

On Saturday we spent our first night in a municipal albergue in Estella. All our friends, new and old, are staying here. Everyone cooked a dinner at the well stocked kitchen -  mostly for 5 or 6 others - and wine was flowing. Great fun and camaraderie has been had.
Particularly important the place is not full, so we have a lower bunk. 6 Euros + cost of food from supermercado. In case you are wondering, we spent under 45 Euros for the two today, including morning coffees, bread, cheese and fruit for our lunch picnic, as well as afternoon glasses of wine. You just need to spend most of the day walking, sleep with numerous others in a communal room and enjoy being around others. Wouldn't be anywhere else right now.....

Pamplona - Puente de la Reina.    24kms   (Day 4)

After a night visiting 5 Pintxos bars in Pamplona (including one with delectable foie gras to satisfy Les' whims) it was a long walk today. Les was pooping out at the end so we stopped at the first albergue in town. Nice big place and not full - I think/hope the concern of finding a bed has passed. Saw a few folks from our Camino "family" today but some have disappeared. The climb up to the Alto del Pedron was not all that hard, so we must be finding our legs - not that they don't ache at the end of the day

Zubiri - Pamplona    22Km

There are characters doing this walk. Red-bearded Irish James crossed the Pyrenees with a half- full bottle of wine instead of water, in sweatpants and unlaced used Army boots. Liliana a middle aged woman from New Zealand told us she is carrying her just deceased brother's ashes. Sebastian has been walking for 5 months - done various other Caminos in Spain. So far has walked about 3500 kilometers. He walks 40 km a day. We won't see him again. Anna from Canada is carrying over 30 pounds - took her 13 hours to cross the Pyrenees and was the last to arrive in Roncesvalles - at 8:15pm. She told us she had recently read "the Wild". She did not look too good. We suggested she might lessened her load a bit....This morning chatted with a 76 year old Swiss man and his 73 year old wife. They were on their third Camino. Told me his walking staff has seen 8000 kilometers - I believed him..
Tonight is half- priced Pintzos in all of Pamplona. I scheduled the arrival just for this good deal....

Roncesvalles - Zubiri      22kms

Today our legs ache. It's expected, but Leslie's tendinitis is a cause of concern.  Some massaging, Motrin and ice seems to have helped. One day at time.
Today's walk was not as spectacular as yesterday, but still lovely countryside and plenty of places to stop for cafe con leche. Suffice to say the Basque language is incomprehensible.
We were just about the last to leave the Monastery this morning at 7:30 am (lights on at 6:00am) so had the walk almost to ourselves. While our Hostel this evening is fully booked, we aren't seeing the hordes of walkers I was expecting.
So far the best part is sitting at the local bar after finishing for the day and chatting with other pilgrims. Today it was with 3 Irish brothers and their dad who are on the Camino for 10 days.

   Saint Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles  24kms

Today Leslie crossed the Pyrenees talking to Jules. Not her dear deceased dad, but a ex-military chap from the UK. Nevertheless, there was something appropriate about it....I on the other hand, got to walk mostly in silence about 50 meters behind them taking in the beauty of it all. Not that I didn't chat with folks as there were lots of walkers. But fortunately as the day progressed, we were able to enjoy the walk in surprising solitude.
The walk was hard. Especially the downhill part. But beautiful and perfect, cool walking weather. It would be a tough climb in the heat.

We are currently in the monastery hostel - a huge and modern facility, with folks from everywhere. Tired, but if the rest of this adventure only partially matches this day - it should be quite nice